Trad climbing sling vs runner. The cord is tested as breaking strength of one strand.

Trad climbing sling vs runner i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. Aug 23, 2022 · Learning to lead climb means memorizing a system AND accumulating fluency and trust in that system. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. Each of these approaches has its advantages and disadvantages, and choosing the correct Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. About this item Climbers, meet your new gear sling MVP! The Rabbit Runner isn't just another runner - its innovative dual-pocket design solves multiple problems at once. I also have up to three cams racked on Nutrinos. Aug 1, 2025 · See our guide to the best climbing quickdraws of 2025, with the best sport, trad, and ultralight quickdraws from Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, Metolius, and more. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. Dec 4, 2014 · Alpine draw vs Quickdraw? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. In the Alps it depends what I am climbing, how many ropes I am using and if I am doing all the leading. A lot of climbs have bolts or places to put webbing but how do you rap without leaving gear behind? Dec 4, 2017 · Clipping while ice climbing is much more similar to sport climbing where you want a quick fluid clip vs. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Mar 2, 2016 · To find the best sling width, make a choice with the following factors: intended use, material type, handling / dexterity, price, weight and mental comfort -- all explained in this post. Nylon webbing is cheap and easy to buy in bulk. Be sure to keep the bar tack out of the way, high up near the bolt/carabiner. To start, you need Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Jul 10, 2025 · The Mammut Alpine Trad Sling is a lightweight, single-strand sling designed for alpine, ice, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Quick-draws are vital for avoiding rope drag on long routes, and for reducing the risk of protection shifting or being pulled out - so getting the correct number, as well as the right selection, is vital. Apr 14, 2021 · Slings, carabiners and anchor material Like in sport climbing, you’ll need carabiners and slings to clip your rope onto the protection. 2. if you are only getting into trad climbing, then you will need to know how to select and utilize the following: climbing slings and runners: My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. It’s either clamped to testing device or rolled around large arbor to remove effect of knots and bending to strength. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. Sewn draws are ok for sport but I find their extra stiffness a drawback with trad gear, in addition to their reduced versatility. Quickdraws are an essential piece of climbing gear for clipping bolts on sport climbs, and also serve many purposes for traditional or multi-pitch climbing, such as Nov 2, 2017 · Building a Mini-Quad To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. Apr 10, 2020 · In reply to Jackscottadair: All mine are made with a tripled shoulder-length slings (alpine draws?) I usually carry 12 for multipitch climbs. You shouldn’t be pulled sideways if the climber Mar 21, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This is why you should not use normal quick draws on trad routes, but, instead, alpine draws, which are extendable. How strong are they? Jul 10, 2023 · Been sport climbing for 10+ years getting into trad climbing (finally have the disposable income). The main thing is Mar 9, 2023 · Building anchors Alpines can be used to build anchors in both traditional climbing and sport climbing contexts. In trad climbing you are using the type of gear described above. Tendon Nylon Sling - UIAA and CE Certified Rock Climbing Sling - Great for Anchors, Trad Climbing, and Alpine Draws - 16 mm x 60 cm Visit the Tendon Store 5. The climb isn't over when you reach the top; you still need to make an anchor to attach yourself and belay your partner from. Discover what they are, how to properly use them, and why they’re essential. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video (DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. Before I talk about my ideas on ‘how many Extra Climbing Gear You’ll need two anchor kits for a multi-pitch route. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve Nuts Or Cams? James Pearson’s Trad Climbing Tips | Climbing Daily Ep. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Jan 31, 2023 · A trad rack can be a climber's greatest pride. Feb 5, 2024 · I've been climbing for a long time and have used the rope, cordelettes, slings, etc. Clip the sling into two bolts. I still bring a few tied slings for leaving on rap anchors, trees, etc so that I don't have to leave one of the $10 suckers. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. However, because rope distributes any Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Climbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Aug 16, 2021 · Trad vs Sport Climbing Trad vs sport climbing in comparison is simply differentiated by the type of gear you use. Tie a figure 8 or figure 9 in the sling to create the Master Point. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. Oct 26, 2016 · Heading out on a road trip with classic trad destinations on the list, climbers will witness a spectrum of clipping techniques: rope clipped right to the cams while crack climbing at Indian Creek, quickdraws to Tricams at the Gunks, and slinging horns on wandering alpine routes in the North Cascades. But they all have advantages and disadvantages. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. When you loop 7kN cord, the knot you make weakens the rope at knot about 30% off the strength. Oct 18, 2021 · Trad Climbing is the classic way of climbing outdoors - using some cool gear, a cool head, and a lot of knowledge. Gates In vs Gates Out A contentious issue! May 11, 2024 · Flip-Stops fit over all modern slings, but they work particularly well with narrow slings found on popular cams like Black Diamond Z4s or Totems. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. Learn a few here. These extendable quickdraws will help manage rope drag on meandering pitches. Food and Water If your multi-pitch is likely to take more than a few hours, consider bringing food and water to We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Feb 20, 2020 · Here's something to consider when talking about climbing techniques - Consider using the words “never” and “always” with restraint. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. Know all 3, and pick one you are most comfortable with. cheaper. Luckily slings are a relatively cheap part of your climbing kit and you can always add more as time goes on. A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. In this article, we’ll review the need for a personal anchor system while climbing, alternative options to these products, and review each of these Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. Mar 23, 2020 · In trad my go to is to use the rope for the anchor but the bulk of my climbing at home is single pitch sea cliffs so leading through isn't an issue. Learn how to choose the type you need. 0 2 ratings $765 Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. Manufactured by Mammut, its key selling point is its ease of use and ability to be shortened, making it safer and faster than traditional slings. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Maybe we can put some of these well meaning but perhaps misinformed ideas to rest. Trad Anchors – Part 4 of 4 > Belaying the Second This 'Belaying the Second' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Sep 14, 2006 · I used tied runners for a long time until I found the super-light weight 8mm Mammut sewn slings. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. When extending placements it reduces the faffing of extending the alpine draw and reduces the weight of extra carabiners for each draw. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. Clip your climbing rope through the bottom locking carabiner (s). I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have to carry a cordelette. 2452 EpicTV Climbing Daily • 16K views 6 months ago Apr 2, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. On some routes, it can make the difference between… Really depends on the scenario. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. Slings (also called runners) webbing; understanding the difference between slings and runners is crucial for climbers. Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. In traditional climbing, you can use alpine draws to extend pieces of your anchor just like you would with other pieces of protection. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. Learn how to make and use extendable quickdraws for trad climbing. Which are the best slings and runners for crags, via ferratas & beyond? Find out everything about materials & length in our dedicated guide. Make sure you bring: - Two cordelettes/ long slings - At least six screwgates - Two belay devices If the descent from your route involves abseiling, make sure to bring ATC style belay devices and prusik cords. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Understand what is trad climbing & how it differs from sport. If you’re making the transition from sport to trad climbing, extension is one of the big skills to master. Find out how to start now! Oct 29, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In sport climbing you use pre-drilled bolts to clip into for protection. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. But trad routes tend to wander more because you aren’t following a line of bolts. This 'Trad Anchor' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. Don't climb above and then fall straight onto ANY anchor, and you'll be fine. Nov 1, 2024 · Searching for the best quickdraws for climbing? Our expert climbers have put over 35 different quickdraws to the test over the past 12 years, and this review features 14 of the best and most popular options you can purchase today. For older, wider slings on small, ultra-lightweight carabiners, the Flip-Stops squeeze the sling, causing it to bunch up a little. It holds knots better and doesn’t melt as quickly as Dyneema The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. Extendable quickdraws (alpine draws) make it quick and easy to extend climbing gear. Obviously if there's Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. On steeper Sep 19, 2022 · 18mm Nylon Runner (Quadruple Length Sling) A great sling to use when building sport or trad anchors. For trad, however, much lighter draws work better—featherweight biners on thin, supple slings to reduce bulk and weight and provide a more flexible attachment to nuts (think Black Diamond Oz). Aug 1, 2023 · Learn how to use alpine draws for trad climbing. 3 to 0. However, building one takes time and needs to be tailored to your style. ) A 10 mm or 11 mm Dyneema sling is recommended for anchor building. We further refined the categories of best sport and trad climbing quickdraws with subcategories, since there are many diverse needs within each of these large disciplines. 5 can vary from 0. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems) that could get pretty crazy. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. You'll need to attach yourself to the anchor in a way that you can see your partner as they follow the pitch and brace yourself if they fall. These are larger than the 8 mm used in many 60cm and 120cm slings. Learn how to properly Choose & Use them & Avoid Dangers that arise from misusing soft Climbing e Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. A biner for each cam is overkill ecspecially if your humping you stuff in for miles. Is the It’s apples and oranges. Explore the gear, self-sufficiency & unique challenges. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Jan 16, 2025 · The HMS / munter is something I've practiced but would not enjoy requiring in practice. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. Mar 13, 2019 · One of the necessary pieces of equipment for sport climbing outside is a personal anchor system, or PAS. Rated at a whopping 22kN, it's lighter (just Sep 30, 2020 · You can see your feet more easily, your gear will generally keep out of the way of your climbing movement, and small items of gear won’t get buried on your harness under larger ones. Runner noun (climbing) A short sling with a carabiner on either end, used to link the climbing rope to a bolt or other protection such as a nut or friend. moderate trad climbing where you could probably just use both hands if you needed to. The testing that demonstrated the breakage of Dyneema slings is not realistically representative to what happens in routine climbing. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. If you are trad climbing you will probably need four to six 60s, a few 120s and even a 240 or 480. Your complete guide starts here!. Taking it slow, learning a lot. Sep 14, 2018 · Nut key I carry a DMM Nut Buster, an important piece of kit but easily forgotten until you are struggling to get a stubborn runner out. 2 extra trad draws for nuts. g. The cord is tested as breaking strength of one strand. Oct 2, 2009 · Dont bother having a seperate set of sport or trad draws. One for "mission critical" placements uses a pair of ultralight lockers. Here's everything you need to know. Take the triple length sling as anchor material and abandon the quad for trad. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Shop a wide selection of Climbing Slings, Runners & Cords at DICK’S Sporting Goods and order online for the finest quality products from the top brands you trust. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. The 110cm length of ultra-strong 13mm Dynex webbing features two sewn pockets: a tight 26mm one to securely hold carabiners in place, and a roomy 72mm one for easy girth-hitching. Thoughts on cordelette vs triple length sling for the quad? I don't love the bulk of the cordelette if not needed. Most of the 180 cm slings I have seen are in this larger diameter, so that's good. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Popular examples of these PAS climbing safety systems include the Metolius PAS, the Petzl Connect Adjust, the Camp Swing, and the Kong Slyde. When you clip the loop between two carabiners, the tension is spread to two strands. Other than the sheer difference in bulk, why wouldn't I change? Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. It saves a good amount of weight compared to the bulkier tied slings and they work just as well. You can use your sport climbing quickdraws, but most trad climbers will have a separate trad rack of draws made up of single-length and double-length slings with two carabiners. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Apr 24, 2025 · As we all know, the right gear can make or break an epic day on the crag, and climbing slings are no exception! I’ve had my fair share of adventures (and misadventures) with slings over the years, and today I’m excited to share three of my favorites that have become trusty companions on my climbs. Mar 3, 2023 · Metrics like overall weight, ease of clipping, gate opening, and sling width all came into consideration when choosing the best quickdraws for respective applications. Is May 1, 2022 · What is trad climbing? Is it safe? Expensive? Is it the best type of climbing? Discover the answers and get started. Those four strands should be just the same size as a shoulder sling, so that way it’s easy to carry over your shoulder. sling or closed cordlette). Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I've Friends which I can extend so the qd is only for nut placement and super extending the odd cam Jul 22, 2024 · With the recent discussion about re-racking alpine draws I wondered how many people actually prefer alpine draws vs runners over the shoulder. I have 10 or 12 quickdraws of varying lengths and half a dozen slings to extend when needed for rope drag. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Mar 13, 2024 · For sport climbing, you want full-size, wear-resistant biners on stiff, beefy slings (think Petzl Express or Trango Smooth draw). What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Detailed Class on Slings, Lanyards & Personal Anchors (PAS). Quads don't make much sense for trad, they're really best for sport. Putting longer quickdaws and slings at the back also keeps them from interfering. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. I find the girth hitch with a 48" sling and an HMS locker faster (10 seconds after pro has been placed) and more convenient than anything else for 3 piece anchors, which I build 95% of the time. Having a rigid rope-end carabiner on your ice quick-draws is ideal, and I prefer the larger gate ones like the Petzl Ange L on all my “ice draws”. Make sure you are positioned in a straight line between the anchor and the climber. On easier trad routes, I like to carry my rack on a gear sling and the quick draws on my harness. Aug 28, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Miscellany Two prusik loops A small knife Carrying your rack – gear sling vs harness When sport climbing I carry all my quick draws on my harness. Apr 5, 2023 · Over time, you can double-up on sizes or add smaller and larger pieces. Though the techniques in the article applies to both disciplines, the majority of these techniques are for trad specific anchors. Trad Anchors. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Depending on your setup you may only need one 120 sling. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Let's have a look at some long-running misunderstandings, myths, and hearsay. It appears that it is more efficient and lighter weight to carry over the shoulder with a single biner attached. When you’re racking up for a route the number of quick-draws you take tends to confuse many, finding that they often have too many, or too few. Jan 1, 2015 · A fast and simple anchor that is equalized and redundant. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more. May 18, 2021 · Alpine quickdraws are an absolute essential on just about every trad route. Nylon's principal advantage over Dyneema is that it costs Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. kunza avpzb jhpdg lovjm kfkm jidurd jqcau ckxt hnzq hpqszi aovxm hhi wki yxlofae ggndi